CashmereShopping.co.uk

Scotland the Brave – or should that be Scotland the Soft?

This month we were lucky enough to get some time with Danny Accola, the marketing brains at Hawick Cashmere of Scotland.

Hawick Cashmere is widely regarded as one of the most innovative cashmere garment makers in the world, so we took the opportunity to try and find our more about cashmere, how the care for it and get some hints about the latest cashmere trends.

Why is Cashmere Made in Scotland so special? Some say it's the Scottish water that makes the cashmere so special, but I say it's a combination of expertise nurtured in Scotland for more than two centuries, the passion of the people who are involved in knitting this fine garment and last but not least, the strong will to push technology and creativity to their limits.

We see a lot more cheap cashmere in the market these days. Why is that? Of course it's tempting to buy a made in China cashmere pullover for 1/3 of the price - as it is with t-shirts for £5. But as it is with any product, it's not as easy as just comparing the price. First of all - the difference in the quality of the cashmere yarn is enormous… most fibres of cheap cashmere pullovers are mixed with fibres of inferior quality… but this is just one side of the picture.

As an educated consumer - I would really ask myself under what circumstances are these garments produced? What does made in China really mean? Do the workers have proper healthcare for example? Or insurance? Can workers in these conditions generate a passion for the item they are making?

Apart from price, how can our readers tell good quality cashmere from the inferior type? It's relatively easy. If a brand new cashmere garment is too soft it's usually mixed with other fibres and will get harder and itchy after the first couple washes. Good quality cashmere is not 'super soft' when new but will get softer every time you wear it - and good cashmere lasts forever! Imagine; some of us have pullovers for 10 or more years and they still look fantastic. Another characteristic is the density of the knitted fabric - loose knits will wear out and rip a lot faster!

How has technology changed cashmere garment design and production? Until a decade ago, the technology hadn't moved on at all. The old Bentley frames (a standard in the cashmere knitting industry) were omnipresent in cashmere mills all over Europe … and this is one of the reasons why Far Eastern competitors got a chance to flood the market. There was no innovation and they were using cheaper labour.

When our CEO, Jim Thomson, took over the Hawick Cashmere mill, he knew the “Good Old Days” were over and that he needed to transform the production plant and make it fit for the future. On a business trip to Japan he discovered a fascinating new technology developed by the Japanese manufacturer Shima Seiki – the 'whole garment' machine. At this point, it was in use only in the cotton industry. The machine knits 3 dimensionally and therefore skips several steps in the assembly line by knitting entirely seamless garments. This means a perfect fit – the dream of every customer. Jim Thomson was convinced the future for the cashmere industry lay with this technology. Everyone at Shima told him they had already tried to knit with cashmere but the fibre was too delicate and not suitable. After three days of meetings, Jim persuaded the Shima engineers to try again, this time using the know-how of his Scottish technicians. The first test runs began in Hawick two months later.

The challenge to knit cashmere on a machine designed for cotton was enormous, but the combination of Japanese engineering and patience and the Scottish expertise and passion proved to be a success. Today, ten years later, Hawick Cashmere of Scotland is the first manufacturer in the world to move its entire production on to this technology and the first manufacturer to create a Collection made up entirely of seamless knitwear.

The response time that was created with this switch is extremely fast. So fast - we introduced a 'create your own' service in our stores. You choose your style, your colour, your size and the garment will be produced - especially for you - and shipped to your doorstep within 3 - 4 weeks.

The technology gives us a head start in terms of flexibility, unlimited possibilities in design and last but not least the power to continue manufacturing the best cashmere in the world - proudly made in Scotland.

If technology has moved on so much does that mean craft no longer has a role to play? Au contraire! A great car doesn't drive automatically well - it's the driver who makes the difference. Our entire plant would be completely obsolete without the people who have unique skills, two centuries of know-how and an incredible passion for cashmere. Craftsmanship combined with tradition, heritage, innovation and the strong will to push boundaries is what makes the difference at Hawick Cashmere of Scotland. And this is what we strongly believe and support.

We all have moments of weakness - we often plump for the softest possible cashmere. Are we right to do so? Unfortunately no, but it's understandable. This myth has been around forever. The fact is that the softer it is, the weaker the yarn - and the quicker you won't like to wear your beloved garment anymore, because it'll stretch and wear out. Inferior quality cashmere gets harder and itchy - while good cashmere has to be worn in and gets softer every time you wear it.

We are always asked about looking after cashmere - do you have any tips you can share? Cashmere likes to be spoiled! Best is to hand wash your garment with a special cashmere shampoo, rinse it properly (don't swing) and lay flat to dry. Do not expose it to bleach, regular washing powder … and never wash it in the machine. Follow these simple rules and your cashmere garment will be around for a long time.

Where can our readers find your lovely clothing? The Hawick Cashmere of Scotland collections are available in every of our thirteen flagship stores in seven countries on three continents and since October 2008 also in our first store in Tokyo (New Otani Hotel). Besides our own stores approximately 200 specialty stores all over the world carry our lines. Find Hawick Cashmere stores here.

Hawick produce some of the most innovative designs. Can you give us any hints about next seasons cashmere 'must haves'? It has been very hectic in the past weeks - but really exciting. We just finished the last touches on our fall/winter 09/10 collection and shipped it to the photo studio for a photo shoot (with the talented Swiss photographer Christian Ammann). There are a couple of highlights in the upcoming season, such as the famous cashmere dresses (available in 49 unique colours). Cardigans will have a huge revival and, my personal favourite, all the styles in superfine cashmere - as fine as a T-Shirt, but 100% cashmere.

Danny, thank you very much for your time and for being so informative. You're welcome.

You can see the current Hawick Cashmere of Scotland collection at www.hawickcashmere.com

The comments in this article are those of Danny Accola and not necessarily those of CashmereShopping.co.uk or its staff.